La Brasserie, Darlinghurst

Every Sunday, says Jacques Reymond, he smells disaster in his neighbourhood.

"It's the smell of burning meat. Australians burn their meat until it's black." He shakes his head in dismay. "To cook meat you need to be gentle." He can't understand the Australian appreciation for charred protein.

Reymond, head chef and owner of the three-hat Jacques Reymond - Cuisine du Temps in Melbourne, is