Assam laksa. An aromatic swamp of mackerel, tamarind, pineapple, chilli and mint, I was determined to overdose on it as much as I could in Malaysia.
But first, we needed breakfast before we could hit the road to Penang, where their version of assam laksa is said to be the best. In the quiet town of Ipoh we found a dearth of places open at 9am, eventually settling for the ever-present
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